With most of Central Texas likely to stay in drought through spring and summer, there are a few things worth doing in late winter and early spring that make a real difference to how trees handle the heat.
Related: Chipping and mulching in Wimberley and the Hill Country.
Mulching, simple and often done wrong
Mulch regulates soil temperature, holds moisture, cuts competition from grass and weeds, and protects roots from compaction. Apply two to four inches of organic mulch, keep it several inches clear of the trunk, absolutely no mulch volcanoes, and extend it out toward the drip line where you can.
Done now it also protects roots from late cold snaps, which is exactly the two-way protection you want at this time of year. We are always happy to chip on site and mulch for you. If you have dead trees to remove or limbs to trim, say at the estimate that you want the material mulched and we will leave it where you want it. See chipping and mulching.
Watering, planned before the tree is stressed
Deep infrequent watering encourages deep roots rather than shallow surface ones. Strong roots going into summer let a tree find deep moisture through drought, and leave it better placed to handle high wind or an ice storm.
Late winter and early spring is the time to check irrigation for leaks and poor coverage, adjust schedules to actual rainfall and soil moisture, and make sure water is reaching the root zone rather than running off. Slow drip is nearly always the right approach.
Inspections, while you can see
On deciduous trees a thinner winter canopy can make small cracks, weak branch unions, early decay and root problems easier to see. All of those can mean limb or whole-tree failure later. See tree health and maintenance.
Mulch, done properly
Two to four inches of organic mulch, extended outward toward the drip line, and kept three to six inches clear of the trunk. A donut, never a volcano. Piling mulch against bark traps moisture and causes decay, and it is the most common tree care mistake we see on Hill Country properties.
Done right it regulates soil temperature, holds moisture through drought, cuts competition from grass and protects roots from compaction. Mulching improves soil health and moisture retention, which on thin soil over limestone is the limiting factor far more often than fertility.
Watering that builds deep roots
Deep and infrequent, not little and often. Frequent light watering encourages shallow surface roots that cook in August; soaking the root zone lets roots follow moisture down. Slow drip at the drip line rather than at the trunk is nearly always the right approach.
Late winter and early spring is the time to check irrigation for leaks and poor coverage and adjust schedules to actual rainfall, before the tree is already stressed.
Inspect while you still can see
With leaves off, cracks, weak branch unions, early decay and root problems are visible from the ground. Symptoms that start at the top and progress downward point to something vascular; decline starting low points to roots. Several nearby oaks declining together is a strong clue of oak wilt.
Prune to the right limits
Prune no more than 25% of the canopy in a year. Avoid removing branches larger than four to six inches in diameter where you have a choice, cut just outside the branch collar, and sanitize tools between trees.
Oaks get sealed
Deadwood can come out at any time, and so can structural work. What matters on an oak is that every cut is painted promptly and tools are cleaned between trees, regardless of season.
Free inspection before the heat arrives
Trees that go into summer structurally sound, well mulched and properly watered handle drought and wind far better. Call and we will come and look.